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Flowers and Irish field trips on the runway at Alexander McQueen in Paris

by Ace Damon
Alexander McQueen in Paris.

Fast is no longer in fashion. For her Alexander McQueen show, held in an orange grove in Paris on Monday night, stylist Sarah Burton wanted to slow down.

After a field trip to Ireland, Burton and his team sketched endangered flowers, embroidered the guipure lace designs, and made a custom-made costume. "Much of the fabric industry in this country is threatened, so that was the idea of ​​catching things before they disappeared," said the designer.

Alexander McQueen in Paris. Photography: WWD / Rex / Shutterstock

The team's visit to Ireland and a collaborative project in which the entire studio worked together on looms to convert a life-drawing sketch into fabric, “were shortening time. There is so much noise in the world, everyone is in such a hurry that we all feel we don't have time. And embroidery takes a long time. So this season has been about having a moment for us as a community to be with our own thoughts and consider what we think rather than listening to anyone else. At the end of the show, Burton took his entire design team to the catwalk to share his bow.

Burton joins several top fashion labels, including Chloé, who this season broke the fashion taboo by revisiting previous collections to challenge the notion that fashion is disposable. The first time on this catwalk this season was an ivory linen dress with puffing sleeves – moon-bleached instead of sun-bleached, a traditional Irish method of achieving a silver white instead of yellowish white – which was a makeover of a fashion. from the Eshu Alexander Mcqueen collection from the fall of 2000.

The final dress of the collection was modeled on a look that appeared on the catwalk last season. The makeover was "a symbol of life," Burton said.

Strong shoulders, a trademark of McQueen, were crisp and angular in custom-made suits, or puffed up in Renaissance-style square neckline dresses. The swollen forms came from watching the gentle drama of Irish shawls and capes, the designer said. Most spectacular was a procession of flowered dresses – not floral in the traditional sense, but larger-than-life flower sculptures made of silk organza. Densely wrapped petals of pinkish rose or cornflower blue were rolled as close as bud peonies, or cut at their edges like tightly pressed carnations.

Earlier this year Alexander McQueen opened a new luxury London flagship, four times the size of the previous store, and announced plans to double the number of boutiques worldwide.

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